Eating and Drinking
For self-catering, there are regular fruit and vegetable markets (Mon-Sat mornings) on Gunduliceva Poljana and on the waterfront at Gruz you can also buy fresh fish as soon as the boats come in. For snacks , try the sandwich bars lining the alleys running uphill from Stradun, notably Kaktus on Vetranoviceva. There's no shortage of restaurants in the old town. Prijeko, the street running parallel to Stradun to the north, is especially stacked with eateries, although beware of the hard sell - each waiter invariably has the biggest fish caught that day. Rozarij , tucked away on the corner of Prijeko and Zlatarska, is cosy, intimate and good for fresh fish; while Kamenica , Gunduliceva poljana 8, is an unpretentious place serving up cheap portions of girice (tiny deep-fried fish) and kamenice (oysters). Similarly informal is Baracuda , a tiny pizzeria on Bozidareviceva. Konoba Posat , uz Posat 1, is a large garden terrace just outside the Pile Gate which is good for grilled meats. The pavement cafes at the eastern end of Stradun are the places for daytime and evening drinking , although none of them have much atmosphere if the weather's not suitable for sitting outside. On such occasions it's best to head for the smaller cafe/bars in the backstreets: Mirage , Buniceva Poljana, is a popular meeting point for Dubrovnik youth; while Hard Jazz Cafe Troubadur on the same square has live jazz most nights. Otok , Pobijana 8, is an alternative cultural centre whose cafe-bar attracts bohemian types. For a more beery evening, head for Pivnica Karaka , Izme Du Polaca 5. Outside the centre, ulica bana Jelacica, just above the bus station, is lined with bars buzzing until late on summer evenings - although none stand out individually. For clubbing, Arsenal , outside the Pile Gate, and Esperanza , near the bus station at Put Republike 30, are mainstream places. Gigs or themed disco nights take place at the Karantena, a cultural centre just beyond Pile Gate on Frana Supila.
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