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Debelyanov House and the Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa





On a sidestreet leading north from ul. Garanilo stands the small Debelyanov House (Tues-Sun 9.30am-5.30pm), where the symbolist poet Dimcho Debelyanov was born in 1887. Painted royal blue with a white trim, its timbered upper floor contains a humdrum exposition of his tragically short career, with such personal items as his childhood cradle, and the suitcase of books that accompanied him to war. Amongst the many sepia photographs are portraits of two of his lovers, Ivanka, to whom he dedicated his poems, and the doomed Elena, whose father disapproved of the relationship so strongly that he finally killed both her and himself. There's also an intimate oil portrait of Debelyanov, executed by his friend, Georgi Mashev. In the garden is a poignant statue of Dimcho's mother, vainly awaiting his return from the battlefields of Greece, where he was killed in 1916.

An identical statue broods over his grave in the local cemetery, at the top of ul. Garanilo, whose inscription is from one of his own poems: "Delaying in a gentle dream she becomes her own

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child." Also in the cemetery stands the Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa , whose tolling bell proclaimed the beginning of the 1876 Rising. Built in 1817 on the site of an older church burnt down by the Turks, it is partly sunken into the ground to comply with the Ottoman edict that no Christian building should be taller than the local mosque. The interior is rustic in its simplicity, aside from an elaborate iconostasis by Teteven craftsmen, containing several icons by Zahari Zograf.


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12/5/2008 1:50:53 PM

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