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Deservedly the most popular destination in the southern Pirin, the tiny town of Melnik , 20km southeast of Sandanski, is known for its robust red wine, impressive houses and natural surroundings. An ideal place to relax, favoured by Sofians and foreign diplomats at weekends, it's readily accessible on one of the three public buses daily from Sandanski. Coming by car from the Sandanski direction, head south along the main E79 highway and take the Petrich/Rupite turn-off (Melnik itself isn't signed), taking care not to head off in the Petrich/Rupite direction - double back under the highway and head east instead. The route from Sandanski passes tobacco fields hugging the roadside above the fertile bed of the Struma, before snaking into hills that become arid and rocky, swelling into desolate mountains stretching towards Greece and the Aegean. Roads deteriorate and faded notices attest to the border zone that existed here in the Communist period, when Greece was regarded as a hostile western state. If you're not in a hurry, stay at least one night in Melnik and walk over the hills to the Rozhen Monastery - one of Bulgaria's oldest, most picturesque foundations
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