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Although most easily reached from Gotse Delchev, the mountains on the eastern side of the Mesta valley technically represent a spur of the Rhodopes, not the Pirin. The feel of the place is different too: the land is dry and stony, with Muslim and Christian villages dotted amongst stunted oaks, acacias and wild thyme, with goats and tobacco forming the backbone of the local economy. Village tourism is the new cottage industry and buzzword in the region, as wealthy Sofians pay to live in authentic highland hamlets, consume local food and wine and bliss out on the scenery - yet still enjoy decent bathrooms and cable TV. In fact, amenities vary from village to village - or house to house in places - from tastefully modernized stone houses to spartan lodgings with a local Baba (Granny). Gotse's tourist office can suggest options and phone on your behalf. Unfortunately, this rural idyll is poorly served by buses . The daily service to Dospat follows the main road east out of Gotse Delchev, and although it's an exhilaratingly scenic ride, the route doesn't take you near enough to any of the key villages to make it worth your while stopping off. There is one bus on alternate days to Kovatchevitsa via Leshten, and one daily service to Dolen. Local taxis are the only other option, with prices inflated by the state of the road - the one to Kovachevitsa is awful. If you have your own transport, then visiting Dolen, Leshten and Kovatchevits as a day trip makes for a great excursion - although the rustic charms of the last may well make you want to stay.
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