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The landscape of Bulgaria south of the capital is dominated by the River Struma, which rises on the southern slopes of Mt Vitosha before sweeping west then south through a series of arid gorges and fertile flood plains. Both the main southbound train route and the E79 highway to Greece follow the Struma Valley for much of its length, skirting some of the country's most grandiose scenery on the way. Although the major towns along the route are pleasant enough, most of the area's real attractions lie in the mountains to the east. Formerly noted for their bandits and hermits, the Rila and Pirin ranges contain Bulgaria's highest, stormiest peaks: swathed in forests and dotted with alpine lakes they reward exploration by anyone prepared to hike or risk their car's suspension on the backroads. In the Rila range, the modern resort of Borovets is a major winter sports centre, while the much smaller Malyovitsa , nearby, is the starting point for some classic summer hikes. On the way you pass through the historic crafts town of Samokov , whose artists adorned Rila Monastery , the most revered of Bulgarian holy places. The Pirin range is wilder and less developed, although its highest peak, Mt Vihren , is accessible from Bansko , whose nest of old stone houses makes it easily the most attractive of the mountain towns. On the southern fringes of the Pirin range near the Greek border, the monastery of Rozhen lies at the end of a great hike from the village of Melnik , known both for its wine and its vernacular architecture. Slightly nearer to Sofia, the route leading west towards the Republic of Macedonia takes you past the ancient monastery of Zemen and the spa town of Kyustendil , which retains a smattering of Ottoman-period remains. Destinations like these - along with many others in the southwest - are possible day trips from the capital.
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