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For drama and majestic vistas, few routes in Bulgaria match crossing the SHIPKA PASS . Particularly at sunset, when the mountains darken and a chill wind disperses the tourists, you can feel something of the pass's potent historical significance. Ever since Alexander the Great drove back a force of Triballi here in 335 BC, control of Shipka has been an important strategic imperative. When present-day Bulgarians think of Shipka, however, they recall the Russo-Turkish War, when 6000 Russians and Bulgarians resisted a 27,000-strong Ottoman force that had been dispatched northwards to break the siege of Plevna (modern-day Pleven) in August 1877. Snow exacerbated the hardships of Radetsky's ill-equipped Bulgarian volunteers (many of whom had been civilians in Gabrovo just days before), and despite the local women who brought supplies, the defenders' ammunition was exhausted by the third day of the battle and they resorted to throwing rocks, tree trunks and finally corpses at the Turks. The pass held, however, and in due time Plevna surrendered, whereupon the Russians reinforced Radetsky's army and ordered it to fight its way down the snowy mountainside to defeat the remaining 22,000 Ottoman troops outside Kazanlak - which it did. The journey across the mountains between Kazanlak and Gabrovo takes about ninety minutes by bus , and it's wise to book seats when leaving either town - even if you're planning to stop halfway and then continue on or return by a later service (there are usually some empty seats by the time buses reach the pass). Most visitors head for three major destinations around Shipka: the scenery and war memorials of the summit itself; the neighbouring Mt Buzludzha , where renowned haidut Hadzhi Dimitar bit the dust; and the Shipka Memorial Church , just 12km north of Kazanlak.
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