Churches and Monasteries
During the Communist period, religious buildings considered to be of particular architectural or cultural importance were removed from church control and taken under the state's wing. Although their transformation into "museums" was at odds with their spiritual purpose, this policy did ensure that large amounts of cash were channelled into their restoration and upkeep. Now that ecclesiastical properties have been returned to the ownership of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church, many historical churches and chapels, previously used as exhibition halls or tourist attractions, have become places of worship again, but lack funds for repairs and can only afford to do the work slowly, which may entail long periods of closure. Another reason why you'll find the doors of many churches firmly shut is general unease about crime, with many priests fearing for their precious icons and only opening up just before services. The morning liturgy - which commemorates the Last Supper - begins at 8 or 9am, and there may also be an evening service at 5 or 6pm; both usually take about one and a half hours. As Bulgarians often wander in halfway through to savour a few moments of prayer before crossing themselves and departing, you shouldn't feel embarrassed about doing the same. The period between about 4pm or 5pm, just before the evening service, tends to be the best time for looking around. There are no hard and fast rules regarding what to wear in a Bulgarian church, although bare arms for females, and bare legs for males, are often regarded as a sign of disrespect. The gates of monasteries tend to be open to all-comers from dawn until dusk. The more famous monasteries, among them Rila, Troyan, Bachkovo and Dryanovo, are used to receiving visitors all year round, and you can wander through the galleried monastery courtyards more or less at will. Some of the smaller foundations, however, will only have a handful of monks or nuns in residence, so you may again discover that churches and chapels within the monastic precinct are locked. Somebody will probably open up, though, if you show persistent interest.
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