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Tekke at Obrochishte





Beyond the vast roundabout marking the western fringe of Albena, the E87 heads eastwards along the coast, although most traffic takes the inland route through the village of Obrochishte , overlooked from a hillside by the partially ruined Dervish monastery of Ak Yazula Baba Tekke . This sixteenth-century foundation consists of two seven-sided structures roughly 50m apart, with the smaller of the two, on the right, containing the still-intact turbei , or tomb , of Ak Yazula Baba himself. A fourteenth-century holy man who subsequently became an object of veneration for local Muslims, Yazula Baba attracted Dervish communities to the area and, although the latter have long-since departed, the Tekke is still a powerful draw for both Muslims and Christians alike. Bulgarians believe it to be the last resting place both of St Athanasius (patron saint of lost sheep), and of the country's first Christian ruler, Knyaz Boris I, and pious shepherds used to sacrifice hundreds of sheep here on St George's Day - hence the name Obrochishte, which means "place of sacrifice". Even today local Muslims and Christians observe common holidays and join in each other's rites, assembling here to eat a sacrificial meal (followed inevitably by drinking and dancing) on four important dates of the year: Atanasovden (St Athanasius's Day, 19 Jan), Gergyovden (St George's Day, 6 May), Kurban Bayram and Sheker Bayram (both moveable Muslim feasts). Unfortunately it's rare to find the turbe open outside these dates, although pilgrims can still thrust their hands through a special opening in the building to acquire good fortune from the head of the saint buried within. Visitors also hang

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clothes or strips of cloth on neighbouring trees to ensure good health and protection from evil. The roofless ruin to the left of the turbe is the old Dervish imaret , or refectory, where people gather on the four main holy days to cook vast cauldrons of meat.

Only 3km from the Albena roundabout, Obrochishte is an easy walk from the resort itself: an asphalt path runs parallel to the road on the lefthand side. Otherwise, hourly Albena-Dobrich buses pass through the village


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11/22/2008 11:30:14 PM

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