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You can explore the hilly terrain surrounding Berkovitsa by following any of the farm tracks leading out of town, although the most rewarding itineraries take you west towards the glowering ridge of the western Balkan Range. To get started, follow ul. Kiril i Metodii west from the main square, and past the sports grounds to the end of town, until it splits into right and left forks. The right fork winds its way round the near side of the Mramor marble factory before heading into the wooded valley of the Berkovska Reka, finishing up at the popular picnic spot of Haidushki Vodopadi (" haidut waterfalls"; 1hr 30min), a series of cataracts where the young river tumbles down a boulder-strewn valley floor. The left fork zigzags steeply up towards two mountain huts - confusingly, both are known as Hizha Kom - 12km away, useful starting

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points for assaults on the 2016-metre summit of Mt Kom itself (about 2hr from either hizha ). Attempting to walk from Berkovitsa to Kom summit and back in one day is somewhat ambitious (unless you drive as far as the hizhi ), and most people stay at least one night in one of the hizhi - the northernmost one of the pair (tel 0953/4024; US$9-18), nearest to Berkovitsa, is the newer and better equipped - where you can pick up advice on upward routes onto the mountain.


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