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Sarafina House





If you walk from pl. Velchova Zavera along ul. Ivan Vazov you'll catch sight of the Church of SS Konstantin i Elena on the right, skulking behind foliage at the bottom of a steep flight of steps. From here you can descend to what is perhaps the most characteristic of Tarnovo's streets, ul. General Gurko , where the houses - mainly dating from Ottoman times - look stunningly picturesque, perched along the curve of the gorge. Don't miss the Sarafinova Kashta or Sarafina House at no. 88 (Mon-Fri 8am-noon & 1-5pm; US$2), which is so contrived that only two floors are visible from General Gurko but a further three overhang the river. The interior is notable for the splendid octagonal vestibule with wrought-iron fixtures and a panelled rosette ceiling which, like the elegantly furnished rooms upstairs, reflects the taste of the architect

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and owner, the moneylender Dimo Sarafina. The emergence of bourgeois culture in nineteenth-century Tarnovo is recalled in a gallery of sepia family photographs displayed downstairs, along with a reconstructed sitting room, furnished in fashionable "Western" style, and a small display of costumes. There's also a somewhat out-of-context collection of folkloric knick-knacks, including the ubiquitous ritual loaves, baked to celebrate such occasions as marriages, births and saints' days.


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10/7/2008 12:41:39 AM

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