The Town
Lying on an incline, the city's drab modern centre holds most of Tarnovo's downtown shopping area along boulevards Levski and Nezavisimost . From here you can proceed eastwards on foot and let yourself be drawn gradually into the old town . This is fascinating, not so much for its specific sights, of which there are relatively few, but for the feel of the place generally: there's always a fresh view of the city poised above the gorges or some new, unexpected detail. Heading east along ul. Nezavisimost, you arrive at the small pl. Pobornicheski or "Combatants' Square", which has a monument to local rebel Bacho Kiro and other revolutionaries of 1876, whom the Turks hanged from gallows erected on what was then a rubbish tip. The " House of the Little Monkey " overlooking pl. Slaveikov at Vastanicheska 14 gets its nickname from the small grimacing statuette over the balcony, although the bay windows and deeply pointed brickwork are what make it so characteristic of Tarnovo architecture. It was designed in 1849 by Bulgaria's leading nineteenth-century architect Nikolai Fichev or "Kolyo Ficheto", the first of many Tarnovo buildings to bear his imprint. Like many of the town's old houses, it sits precariously above a limited groundspace, with orieled living quarters above what used to be a shop or warehouse.
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