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HomeEuropeBulgariaBalkan RangeCentral Balkan RangeSouth of Veliko TarnovoTryavnaAlong Ulitsa Slaveykov

Along Ulitsa Slaveykov





A bridge leads from pl. Kapetan Dyado Nikola to the cobbled ul. Slaveykov , possibly the best-preserved National Revival-period street in all Bulgaria. Unusually for a Tryavna building, the Daskalov House at no. 27 (summer daily 8am-noon & 1-5pm; winter 9am-5pm; US$1) has a symmetrical plan with two wings joined by a curved verandah. The rooms inside are brightly carpeted, with arched windows and inbuilt minderi , and also contain superb panelled ceilings - sun motifs made from walnut wood, with fretted rays inlaid within a frame decorated with floral and bird shapes. The two ceilings in the first-floor bedrooms are the result of an art contest, arranged by the silk and rose-oil merchant Daskalov in 1808, pitting a master woodcarver, Dimitar Zlatev Oshanetsa, against his apprentice, Ivan Bochukovetsa. The apprentice, who produced the ceiling known as the "Burgas sun", was reckoned by Daskalov to be the winner, although the Guild of Carvers, who oversaw the proceedings, decided in favour of Oshanetsa. However, they too were impressed with the apprentice's work, which took six months to complete, and declared him a Master. Yet more wood carvings are on show in another upstairs room, which is populated with figures of Bulgarian kings and other leading historical figures, carved by Master Gencho Marangozov during the First World War. The ground floor holds a small museum of woodcarving, displaying the products of the State Woodcarving School, established in Tryavna in the 1920s to ensure the craft's survival, and including a reconstruction of a nineteenth-centruy woodworker's shop.

Further along ul. Slaveykov are a couple more exhibitions of works donated by local artists: the Totyu Gabenski Picture Gallery at no. 45, (Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 2-6pm; US$1) and the Ivan Kolev Exhibition House at no. 47 (Mon-Fri 8am-noon & 1-5pm; US$1). The Slaveykov Museum at no. 50, housing the personal effects of the influential writer and teacher Petko Slaveykov, father of the poet Pencho Slaveykov, was closed for major restoration at the time of writing. By heading west from ul. Slaveykov,

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across the rail line and up ul. Breza, you'll reach a stairway which climbs to a church-like edifice housing the Museum of Icon-painting and Woodcarving (Tues-Sun 9am-5pm; US$1). Inside are numerous sumptuous products of the nineteenth-century Trevnenska shkola or "Tryavna School" - a guild with a distinctive style of cutting the wood back until acanthus leaves, birds and other favourite motifs were rendered in openwork like lace covering the surface of the iconostasis.


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10/12/2008 12:08:33 AM

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