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The mill town of Gabrovo is the main urban centre south of Tarnovo, although it's in the smaller towns and villages, where rural architecture and crafts have been best preserved - notably Tryavna, Bozhentsi and the museum-village of Etara - that the main attractions lie. Several historic monasteries , such as Kilifarevo, Dryanovo and Sokolski, are within easy striking distance of these places. Veliko Tarnovo, Gabrovo and Tryavna are equally convenient as bases from which to explore the region, and even if you're reliant on public transport you'll find that you can reach several destinations in the space of one day-trip. Both Dryanovo and Tryavna are linked directly to Veliko Tarnovo by train, although continuing to Gabrovo involves a change at Tsareva Livada. Buses, too, are plentiful, with hourly services linking the area's major towns. Less well served by public transport are the little-visited monasteries near the historic town of Elena to the southeast, although together they form an easily digestible cluster of rustic sights to those with access to a car. Travelling onwards to the Valley of the Roses from here involves two of Bulgaria's most scenic mountain routes. The Veliko Tarnovo-Tryavna rail-line winds its way southwards through the densely wooded Tryavna Pass (where Petar and Asen defeated the Byzantine army in 1190, preserving the independence of the Second Kingdom), before joining the Sofia-Burgas line at Dabovo. If travelling by road, the E85 heads towards the impressive Shipka Pass just above Gabrovo (the place to catch buses over the pass), then drops down towards Bulgaria's "rose capital", Kazanlak.
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