Practicalities
Ulitsa Vasil Levski, the main street, heads north from the main square passing the municipal tourist office at no. 133 (daily 9am-5pm; tel & fax 0670/35064, info_troyan@tr.bia-bg.com ), which sells maps, rents bikes, hires out English-speaking hiking guides and arranges accommodation in small hotels and private rooms, although most of these are in the surrounding villages of Oreshak, Cherni Osam, Chiflik and Shipkovo rather than in Troyan itself. Advice on walking in the Central Balkan National Park is on hand at the Central Balkan Office, ul. Kirili Metodi Zoa (tel 0670/31427 or 26305). Of the hotels in town, the Nunki (tel 0670/22160; US$36-60) occupies an ensemble of National Revival-style buildings by the bridge, diagonally opposite the tourist office. Its simple ensuite rooms come with characterful touches, such as wood-carved ceilings or Ottoman-style minderi (couches), and there are a couple of two-person apartments (US$60 a night) with fridge and satellite TV. More basic and prone to hot-water rationing is the run-down Kapina 1 (tel 0670/22930, fax 26331; US$18-36), occupying an enviable perch on the Kapina hill above town to the east, which is eminently more preferable to the gone-to-seed and rather grisly Kapina 2 next door. The town's best restaurants are the Starata Kashta , ten minutes south of the main square along ul. General Kartsov, which has a large selection of traditional dishes and a pleasant courtyard, and the folksy restaurant of the Nunki hotel, which has a similar menu of Bulgarian standards. There are numerous bars and cafes along ul. Vasil Levski: Dreams , a swish, modern establishment right opposite the tourist office, is one of the best places for coffee and cakes. For internet access, try the Internet Game Centre at ul. Vasil Levski 63. If you're in town on the last Saturday of September, you'll coincide with the annual Rakiya Festival , which takes place in various locations across town, with music, dancing, parades, and, of course, the opportunity to sample the local spirit from which the festival takes its name.
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