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A couple of kilometres beyond the Troyan Monastery, buses from Troyan come to rest in the village of CHERNI OSAM , an unspoilt logging community which provides an excellent base from which to explore the upper reaches of the Cherni Osam valley and the Central Balkan National Park, an extensive nature reserve which lies just south of the village. It's also home to a small Natural History Museum , located at the southern end of the village (Tues-Sun 8am-noon & 1-5pm; US$1.50). Stuffed examples of the local wildlife are on show, including stags, bears and wolves, some mounted on revolving pedestals, with background tapes playing the appropriate howls and growls. There are a couple of friendly, family-run pensions (bookable through the tourist office in Troyan) just off the main street, the most comfortable of which is the Spomen (tel 06962/575; US$18-36, includes breakfast), with five comfortable ensuite rooms grouped around a central courtyard; lunch and dinner can be arranged for an extra fee. The more basic Sherpa (May-Oct only; tel 06962/269; US$9-18, US$18-36 with breakfast) is a traditionally furnished converted family house with shared bathroom inside and another outside in the courtyard. The owner, Radyu Minkov, is an experienced hiker who can organize guided walks and picnics and offer guests advice on the best of the local trails, though only if they speak Bulgarian or German. A wonderful home-cooked dinner, with wine, is available for an extra charge. If you've got your own transport, you could consider staying in the hamlet of Stoynovsko, 3.5km south of Cherni Osam, at the house of Lela Ruska (book through the tourist office in Troyan; US$9-18-US$18-36), who offers traditional-style rooms, and an Eden-like back garden. For eating and drinking , the Spomen has a small bar and restaurant, currently the only place in the village where you can get an evening meal (unless you're staying at the Sherpa ). The most convenient starting point for forays into the mountains is Yavorova Laka , 9km south of Cherni Osam, where a fairly obvious trail ascends southwest beside the Malka Krayovitsa stream to the Ambaritsa chalet (2hr). From here, a path climbs steadily southwards to join the ridge of the main Balkan Range (1hr), just below the 2166-metre summit of Mt Ambaritsa .
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