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The ruins of Preslav are scattered over farmland to the south of the modern town. Unfortunately, there's no signposting, so you may need to ask directions along the way. Head north from Preslav's main square towards the site, which lies beyond the scruffy town park. Beyond the crest of a hill lurks a modern concrete bunker holding an Archeological Museum (daily: summer 9am-6pm; winter 9am-5pm; US$1), where plans and diagrams (in Bulgarian) can be consulted before venturing out into the relic-strewn fields. The museum displays numerous examples of the ceramic tiles used to decorate the medieval town's buildings showing the swirling abstract patterns which characterized decorative arts during the First Kingdom. Prime pieces from Tsar Simeon's golden age include a unique ceramic icon of St Theodore, and the exceptional gold treasure of Preslav, which is kept locked away in a strongroom - a member of staff will open it up for you. Choice pieces include a necklace adorned with enamel plaques showing birds and floral designs and a gold and emerald brooch. Approaching the ruins from here you'll pass through the northern gate, first sign of the sturdy walls which envelop the medieval city - reconstructed with modern stone to something approximating their original height. To the west are the bare ruins of the palace where the tsar held court. Further west, the traces of a vast monastery complex lie raked across the hillside. Beyond the south portal on a hillock is the Zlatna tsarkva or "Golden Church", so called because the dome was said to be covered in gold leaf. Several arches, the bulk of its walls and twelve marble columns (some truncated) still remain, although you'll have to study the model in the archeological museum to appreciate its true grandeur.
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