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A hundred metres beyond the History Museum, ul. Layosh Koshut leads down to Tsar Osvoboditel , and what's left of Shumen's old quarter. Standing at no. 35 is the rarely open Kossuth House-Museum (officially Tues-Sat 9am-noon & 2-6pm; US$1), a warren of panelled rooms linked by creaking corridors, where the Magyar revolutionary Lajos Kossuth stayed for three months after fleeing Hungary in 1849, before the Turks interned him in Asia Minor. Ten minutes' walk to the east, at Enyu Markovski 42, is the memorial house of Panaiot Volov (officially Tues-Sun 8am-noon & 2-5pm; US$1), one of the leaders of the April Uprising who drowned while swimming across the River Yantra to escape Ottoman troops. The house preserves the humble shoemaker's quarters where Volov grew up, while an adjoining pavilion holds the obligatory words-and-pictures display detailing his revolutionary career.

A ten-minute walk west along Tsar Osvoboditel, the House-Museum of Pancho Vladigerov (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; US$1), honours the Shumen-born pianist (1899-1978) who made his reputation as Bulgaria's leading composer with stirring patriotic works such as the opera Tsar Kaloyan (1936), and the little-performed tribute to the socialist takeover

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September 9 (1949). The staff will play a tape of his music as you examine the memorabilia on show, which include Vladigerov's raffish beret and suit, and some fine Chiprovtsi carpets. Further on at no. 87, the Dobri Voinikov House (Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 2-6pm; US$1) remembers the nineteenth-century author of the plays Princess Raina and Civilisation Misunderstood . There's little to see here save for a series of model stage sets, and photographs of early performers.


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An expats walk to work in the BG capital, Sat 10 Nov 07 ... Sofia Bulgaria winter snow slush cold wet Tsar Osvoboditel ...

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