Practicalities
Despite Arbanasi's proximity to Tarnovo, both the gradient and the amount of traffic on the road make it an unappetizing, if not downright dangerous, walk - it's easier to take one of the minibuses that depart approximately every hour from opposite Veliko Tarnovo's pazar . The small tourist office on the main square (irregular hours; tel 062/39086), if you find it open, sells all-inclusive tickets to the House-Museums and churches (US$1.50), which tend to be open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to noon and 2pm to 6pm - although be prepared for unpredictable closures. The office can also help with accommodation and maps. Alternatively, tickets can be bought at the Church of the Nativity and the Konstantsaliev House. Arbanasi has seen a rash of hotel building in recent years - starting from the western entrance to the village, the small, family-run Konstantin i Elena (tel & fax 062/600217; US$36-60) offers simple ensuite doubles and a couple of apartments with TV (US$60). Just off the main square, the Bolyarska kashta (tel & fax 062/20484) has small ensuite doubles (US$18-36), larger doubles (US$36-60), and roomy apartments with bath (US$60), all with TV and swankily furnished, and breakfast included in the price. Just downhill from the square, the Arbus (tel 062/28066; US$36-60) is a traditional-style stone house with timber upper storeys, and ensuite rooms; breakfast included. Most luxurious of the bunch is the Arbanasi Palace (tel 062/28060 or 30176, fax 23717; US$90-120), a former Zhivkov family residence on the southern edge of the village commanding splendid views of the Tsarevets massif immediately below. A brief visit to the timber-ceilinged hotel bar will be sufficient to give you an idea of the former dictator's taste for opulence. There are plenty of places to eat and drink in the village, especially around the main square. Both the Arbus and the Bolyarska kashta hotels have good restaurants , while the Horizont , next door to the Konstantin i Elena hotel, and the Mehana Izvora , just down from the square, are also worth trying for a traditional Bulgarian meal.
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