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If you have a car, it's relatively easy to cut northeast across country from the Troyan region to join the main E7772 highway towards Veliko Tarnovo. Relying on public transport however, things are more complicated, and you may have to double back to Lovech or Pleven in order to pick up east-bound buses and trains. Most eastward road routes come together at SEVLIEVO , 40km from Lovech, a small rural centre whose nineteenth-century buildings have largely escaped the mania for reconstruction and renovation lavished elsewhere. Ulista Skobelevska, the main street, bears a decrepit-looking Church of the Prophet Elijah with icons by Tryavna masters; next door, the Historical Museum at no. 10 (Tues-Sun 8am-noon & 2-6pm), housed in the former village schoolhouse, details the various craft industries that characterized town life before the Liberation. One of the more important trades was leatherworking, memories of which are preserved in the Tabahana , Tabashka 3 (Tues-Sun 8am-noon & 2-6pm), a nineteenth-century tannery decked out with original tools and animal skins. There's no reason to stay overnight in Sevlievo, but if you have to, try the central Hotel Rositsa , pl. Svoboda 1 (tel 0675/3008; US$18-36). For those with plenty of time, a car, and a pathological desire to ride the backroads of Bulgaria, a couple of interesting sights lie hidden away to the south of Sevlievo. Minor roads lead to Gradnitsa , 15km to the southwest, where a medieval fortress tumbles down the slopes of Prechista hill on the south side of the village. Lower layers of the remaining walls are sixth-century Byzantine, but most of the remains date from the Second Kingdom. More intrepid travellers may consider a trip to Batoshevo Monastery , 27km to the south on the old road to Apriltsi, situated high above the west bank of the River Rositsa midway between the villages of Batoshevo and Stokite. Low, barn-like monastery buildings surround the Church of the Assumption, whose grey slate roof slopes down over a richly frescoed porch.
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