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Tues-Fri 1-6.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm; permanent collection free, admission charged for temporary exhibitions. Tram #81 or #82 . The excellent Musee des Beaux-Arts d'Ixelles , rue Jean van Volsem 71, is located about ten minutes' walk southeast of place Fernand Cocq, via rue du College. Established in an old slaughterhouse in 1892, the museum was enlarged and refurbished a few years back and since then it has built up an excellent reputation for the quality of its temporary exhibitions, ranging from Belgian surrealism through to Russian modernism. The permanent collection is mainly nineteenth- and early twentieth-century French and Belgian material, but there's a small sample of earlier paintings in the first wing, including Tobie and the Angel by Rembrandt and a sketch, The Stork , by Albrecht Durer. In the same wing, Jacques-Louis David, one-time revolutionary and the leading light among France's Neoclassical painters, is well represented by The Man at the Gallows . There's also a wonderful collection of haunting works by Charles Herman, one of a group of Belgian realists who struggled to get their work exhibited in the capital's salons: until the late 1870s the salons would contemplate only Romantic and Neoclassical works. Also, look out for the large collection of posters featuring the work of Toulouse-Lautrec - thirty of his total output of thirty-two are displayed here. The museum's two other wings hold an enjoyable sample of the work of the country's leading modern artists, from well-known figures such as the surrealists Magritte, Paul Delvaux and Marcel Broodthaers ( Casserole of Mussels ) to less familiar artists such as Edgar Tytgat, Rik Wouters and Constant Permeke. There's a smattering of sculptures, too, with the main event being Rodin's La Lorraine and J.B. Willems . Rodin used to have a studio nearby at rue Sans Souci 111, in the heart of Ixelles, and this was where he designed his first major work, The Age of Bronze . When it was exhibited in 1878, there was outrage: Rodin's naturalistic treatment of the naked body broke with convention and created something of a scandal - he was even accused of casting his sculptures round live models.
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