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Cobwebbed by tiny squares and twisting streets, home to a plethora of local bars and some of the capital's finest Art Nouveau houses, the neighbouring areas of St Gilles and Ixelles, just south of the petit ring, make a great escape from the hustle and bustle of the city centre. This is Brussels without the razzmatazz and tourists are few and far between, especially in St Gilles , the smaller of the two communes , which is often regarded as little more than an example of inner-city decay. Frankly, this is true enough of its most westerly section, comprising the depressing immigrant quarters of Gare du Midi and the downtrodden streets near Porte de Hal, but St Gilles gets more appealing the further east it spreads, its run-down streets left behind for refined avenues interspersed with dignified squares. Ixelles , for its part, is one of the capital's most interesting and exciting outer areas, with a couple of enjoyable museums, and a diverse street-life and cafe scene. Historically, Ixelles has long drawn artists, writers and intellectuals - Karl Marx, Auguste Rodin and Alexandre Dumas all lived here - and even today it retains an arty, sometimes Bohemian feel. A hallmark of Ixelles is its cheek-to-cheek diversity: the chic boutiques of the Galerie Toison d'Or , for instance, are just across the chaussee d'Ixelles from the rough-edged Galerie d'Ixelles , itself the focus of Matonge , the vibrant social centre of the district's Central African community, packed with late-night bars and cafes. Ixelles is divided in two by avenue Louise , whose character is entirely different, as befits an administrative anomaly: the boulevard is counted as part of the city centre, and has been home to the haute bourgeoisie ever since Leopold II had the avenue laid out in the 1840s. It's here you'll find some of the city's most expensive shops and hotels, pricey jewellers, slick office blocks and the interesting Musee Constantin Meunier , sited in the sculptor's old house. More than anything else, however, it's the dazzling array of Art Nouveau buildings clustering the streets of both St Gilles and Ixelles which really grab the attention. Many of the finest examples are concentrated on and around the boundary between the two communes - in between chaussee de Charleroi and avenue Louise. Here you'll find Horta's own house, now the glorious Musee Horta , as well as examples of the work of Paul Hankar and Armand van Waesberghe. Access to most of the city's Art Nouveau buildings is restricted, so you can either settle for the view from outside, or enrol on one of ARAU's specialist tours.
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