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June-Sept Mon-Sat 9am-5pm & Sun 11.30-4.30pm; Oct-May daily 12.30-4.30pm; free. Metro: Gare Centrale . The city's oldest church, founded in 1134, Notre Dame de la Chapelle is a sprawling, broadly Gothic structure that boasts an attractive if somewhat incongruous Baroque bell tower, added after the French artillery bombardment of 1695 had damaged the original. Inside, the well-proportioned nave is supported by heavyweight columns with curly-kale capitals and bathed in light from the huge Clerestory windows. The pulpit is an extraordinary affair, a flashy, intricately carved hunk featuring Eli in the desert beneath the palm trees. The prophet looks mightily fed up, but then he hasn't realized that there's an angel beside him with manna (bread). Also of note is the statue of Our Lady of Solitude , in the second chapel of the north aisle - to the left of the entrance. The Flemings were accustomed to religious statues whose clothing formed part of the original carving. It was the Spaniards who first dressed their statues in finery - and this is an example, gifted to the church by the Spanish Infanta in the 1570s. The church's main claim to fame, however, is the memorial plaque to Pieter Bruegel the Elder. It was made by his son Jan and is located in the fourth chapel off the south aisle; Pieter is supposed to have lived and died just down the street at rue Haute 132 .
After visiting Notre Dame de la Chapelle, the obvious route is to press on into the Quartier Marolles. However, perhaps a better bet - unless you're heading for the Marolles flea market - is to backtrack to La Tour Anneessens, round the corner from which is rue de Rollebeek, a pleasant pedestrianized lane dotted with cafes and restaurants that climbs up to the place du Grand Sablon in the Upper Town.
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