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From place de la Monnaie, rue Neuve forges north, a workaday pedestrianized shopping street that's home to the big chain stores and the City 2 shopping mall. About halfway up, turn east along rue St Michel for the place des Martyrs , a cool, rational square superimposed on the city by the Habsburgs in the 1770s. Long neglected, the square is very much the worse for wear - work has at last started on a thoroughgoing refurbishment - but there's still no mistaking the architectural elegance of the ensemble, completed in the last years of Austrian control. The only stylistic blip is the nineteenth-century centrepiece, a clumsy representation of the Fatherland Crowned rising from an arcaded gallery inscribed with the names of those 445 rebels who died in the Belgian revolution of 1830.
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