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Just to the north of the Grand-Place, the quarter hinging on the pedestrianized rue des Bouchers is the city centre's restaurant ghetto, the narrow cobblestone lanes transformed at night into fairy-lit tunnels where restaurants vie for custom with elaborate displays of dull-eyed fish and glistening molluscs. Tucked away down an alley off petite rue des Bouchers, at Impasse Schuddeveld 6, is the Theatre Royal de Toone , which puts on puppet plays in the bruxellois dialect - Brusselse Sproek or Marollien. It's very much a city institution and there are regular performances from Tuesday to Saturday - as well as an excellent bar. You'll need to be careful if you're thinking of eating out in one of rue des Bouchers' many restaurants: some charge excessive prices and have poor standards. Footsteps away are the Galeries St Hubert , whose trio of glass-vaulted galleries - du Roi, de la Reine and the smaller des Princes - cut across rue des Bouchers. Opened by Leopold I in 1847, these galleries were one of Europe's first shopping arcades, and the pastel-painted walls, classical columns and cameo sculptures still retain an air of genteel sophistication.
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