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Even more than Graben, Kohlmarkt is the last bastion of luxury retailing, and kicks off, appropriately enough, with the flagship store of Julius Meinl ( www.meinl.com ), the Harrods food store of Vienna. Further up, at no. 14, is the very k.u.k. establishment of Demel , which still advertises itself as an imperial and royal confectioners. Established in 1786 as Zuckerbackerei to the Habsburgs, its very famous and opulent Kaffee-Konditorei, dates from 1888. Another Viennese institution is the Artaria Haus , a Jugendstil building set back from the street at no. 9, and faced in marble by Max Fabiani in 1901, the bolted slabs on the first floor anticipating Otto Wagner's Postsparkasse. The bookshop of the master mapmakers, Freytag & Berndt, occupies the ground floor, while Artaria & Co themselves, publishers of music by the likes of Haydn, Mozart and Beethoven, live on the first floor.
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