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In the section of the Neue Burg nearest the Ring, the Museum fur Volkerkunde ( www.ethno-museum.ac.at ) houses a bewildering array of secular and religious artefacts from around the world. Unfortunately, large sections of the museum are likely to be closed for renovation over the next few years as it drags itself into the 21st century. The ground-floor galleries, despite being badly in need of modernization, contain some interesting pieces from the Far East : check out the cheek-whipping device from China, dried frog from Korea, and Japanese reed raincoat with complementary rice straw boots. The new displays upstairs are a great deal more enticing to look at, beginning with the Polynesia section, much of it brought back from Captain Cook's expeditions, and then snapped up at auction in 1806 by the Emperor Franz I - who could resist the Hawaiian firelighter shaped like a giant penis? The highlight of the Americas section is undoubtedly the stunning sixteenth-century gilded Aztec feather head-dress of the Emperor Montezuma II, who was stoned to death by his own people for his passivity in the face of Cortes, the Spanish imperialist.
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