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Forty kilometres south of Salzburg, the village of WERFEN draws day-trippers from the provincial capital to see two very different attractions: the impressive, fanciful Hohenwerfen fortress presiding over the village itself, and the Eisriesenwelt , giant ice caves in the mountainside to the northeast. Werfen is fairly easy to get to, though not all southbound express trains from Salzburg stop here - check before you travel - and you do need to allow plenty of time to reach the caves if doing the trip by public transport. Provided you set off reasonably early, you should be able to see both the caves and the fortress in the space of a day. Werfen itself comprises a single street and a clutch of Gasthofe and shops, but its impressive geographical situation, in a valley wedged between sheer, rocky mountains, makes it an evocative place to stay for a night or two. There's a tourist office (Mon-Fri 8-noon & 2-5pm, Sat 8-noon; tel 06468/5388, www.werfen.at ) on the main street with a small list of private rooms (under oS400/?29.07). The nearby Gasthof Obauer , Hauptstrasse 46 (tel 06486/212-0; oS800-1000/?58.14-72.67), is a medieval house that has modern rooms with en-suite shower and WC. Also on the main street, the Goldener Hirsch , Hauptstrasse 28 (tel 06486/5342; oS600-800/?43.60-58.14) has simpler en suites. The restaurant at the Obauer is the place to go for Austrian/Modern European cuisine and has a nationwide reputation for gourmet excellence, while the cheaper Goldener Hirsch has all the usual schnitzels, and the Alte Post , also on the Hauptstrasse, offers an acceptable range of pizzas.
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