Practicalities
Both the main Bundesstrasse and the train station are on the west bank of the Salzach, on the opposite side of the river to the town itself. Turn left outside the train station and cross the river to reach the snaking Hauptstrasse, which curls round Untermarkt before climbing into Obermarkt, site of the tourist office (Mon-Fri 8.30-noon & 2-6pm, Sat 9-noon; tel 06412/6036, www.stjohann.co.at ). The tourist office handles private rooms (summer: under oS400/?29.07; winter: oS400-600/?29.07-43.60) in both St Johann and Alpendorf, as well as farmhouse accommodation (under oS400/?29.07) in neighbouring villages - although you'll probably need your own transport to get to the latter. There are two youth hostels in the suburb of Plankenau 2km south of town on the way to the Liechtensteinklamm: Plankenauer Hof , Liechtensteinklammstrasse 126 (tel 06412/8076); and Schlosshof , Liechtensteinklammstrasse 144 (tel 06412/6394). St Johann's two well-appointed campsites are both open all year round: Wieshof (tel 06412/8519) is nearest the train station, in Untermarkt just off the road to Plankenau, and Hirschenwirt (tel 06412/6012) lies at the southern end of town, signposted off the Bundesstrasse. Best value of the hotels are the Lechner , Kasernstrasse 26 (tel 06412/4262; oS600-800/?43.60-58.14), a cosy downtown hotel in Untermarkt, all of whose rooms come with en-suite facilities, and Sonnhof , Alpendorf 16 (tel 06412/7271, www.hotel-sonnhof-at ; summer: oS600-800/?43.60-58.14; winter: oS800-1000/?58.14-72.67), a smallish B&B-style place up the hill in Alpendorf offering buffet breakfast, plus sauna and solarium facilities, together with a range of four- and six-person apartments (under oS400/?29.07). Sporthotel Prem , Premweg 7 (tel 06412/6315-0, www.prem.at ; oS1200-1400/?87.21-101.74) is a top-of-the-range hotel in Obermarkt offering outdoor pool, indoor and outdoor tennis courts, and tennis courses run by an Australian coaching team. Restaurants offering meat-and-two-veg Austrian dishes abound in St Johann: the Braugasthof , Hauptstrasse 22, is the best place in which to sample local cuisine at reasonable prices, with rustic wooden tables and chairs lending the place a homely, beer-hall atmosphere. Bologna , midway between Ober- and Untermarkt at Dr-Untersteiner-Weg 6, is an inexpensive Italian with a good selection of pasta dishes and pizzas; while Lotus , on Hauptstrasse in Untermarkt, is a bright and roomy Chinese with a good-value Mittagsmenu. Tschecherl , Wagrainerstrasse 4, is a popular smart but relaxed drinking venue in Obermarkt which is usually busy all year round. The nearby Titanik , hidden away below the church at Spitalgasse 4, is a small and friendly place that fills up in winter. Up the hill in Alpendorf, Oberforsthoferalm is a year-round drinking and dancing venue, frequently featuring live music (usually folk), and attracting a youngish, partying crowd from all over the Salzburger Land.
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