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From the market area in Penonome, chivas (flatbed trucks converted to carry passengers) head off to villages scattered in the folds of the cool, forested mountains that rise to the north. One of these, Chiguiri Arriba , 29km away, makes an easy day-trip (1-2 chivas daily; leaving about 10am, returning in the afternoon; 1hr 20min; US$1.50). There are plenty of good hiking trails, spectacular views and a thirty-metre waterfall nearby - local children will happily guide you there for a small tip. Some 2km before the village is La Posada del Cerro La Vieja (tel 263 7890 or 223 4553; US$80-100), a luxurious eco-resort set amid beautiful gardens and a private forest reserve. Rates include all meals and guided excursions, on foot or horseback. They can also arrange longer trips across the mountains to El Valle or down through pristine rainforest to the Caribbean coast by trail and canoe along the Rio Indio, though there's no reason - with a little Spanish, a local guide and the right supplies and equipment - why you can't do this independently.
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