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Plaza Catedral , also known as Plaza de la Independencia - the proclamations of independence from both Spain and Colombia were made here - centres on a bandstand, ringed by benches shaded by trees and by busts of eminent Panamanians. Flanked by white towers inlaid with mother of pearl, the classical facade of the cathedral looks out on the square from the west. It was built between 1688 and 1796 using stones from the ruined cathedral of Panama Viejo. Three of its bells were also recovered from its ruined predecessor, and reputedly owe their distinctive tone to a ring thrown by Empress Isabella of Spain into the molten metal from which they were cast. Southeast of the cathedral is the Neoclassical Municipal Palace , whose small Museo de Historia Panamena (Mon-Fri 8.30am-4.30pm; US$1) offers a cursory introduction to Panamanian history that pales in comparison beside its neighbour, the superlative Museo del Canal Interoceanico (Tues-Sun 9.30am-5pm; US$2; www.sinfo.net/pcmuseum ). The museum expounds clearly and in great detail the history of the transisthmian route, from the first Spanish attempt to find a passage to Asia to the contemporary management of the canal, with many photographs and cinema footage and historic exhibits including the original canal treaties. All displays are labelled in Spanish, but if you call in advance they can arrange a free guided tour in English. Across the square from the cathedral is the Hotel Central , built to replace the Grand Hotel and in its time the plushest hotel in Central America. The huge central patio was once a chandelier-lit palm garden where glittering balls were held, and it was here that jubilant crowds gathered in 1903 to celebrate Panamanian independence by pouring champagne over the head of General Huertas, the defecting garrison commander, for over an hour. Though run-down today, it retains much of its former splendour and is a characterful place to stay.
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