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Heading west from Tela, a dirt road edges the bay between the seafront and the Laguna de los Micos, which forms the eastern edge of Punta Sal. Seven kilometres along this road is the sleepy Garifuna village of TORNABE and, beyond that, MIAMI , set on a fabulous stretch of beach at the mouth of the lagoon. Though Tornabe has a few brick-built houses, Miami is unique, consisting of nothing but traditional palm-thatched huts. Accommodation in Tornabe is limited to Chola's (up to US$5), which has very simple huts owned by a friendly couple, and The Last Resort (tel 230 0491 or 996 3318; US$25-40), an idyllic getaway with small, comfortable, air-conditioned cabins and a decent restaurant; they also rent boats for exploring the lagoon. There's nowhere formal to stay in Miami, though if you ask around someone will probably find a place where you can hang a hammock. Buses run from Tela's marketplace to Tornabe several times a day until late afternoon; from here, three pick-ups continue on to Miami from Monday to Saturday. Weekends are the best time to visit, when you'll get to witness performances of Garifuna music - haunting and melodic drum-driven rhythms in which the influence of Africa can be clearly heard.

Some 7km east along the bay from Tela, the village of TRIUNFO DE LA CRUZ occupies the site of the first Spanish settlement on the mainland. Cristobal de Olid landed here on May 3, 1524, but the colony was abandoned within a few months and the area not resettled until the Garifuna began arriving at the end of the

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eighteenth century. Basic accommodation is available, and a couple of small restaurants serve good seafood - try Jorge's . The scenic walk along the beach from Tela takes around two hours, passing the smaller village of LA ENSENADA on the way, though it's not advisable - especially for women - to walk alone or to take anything valuable with you. Intensive tourist development is mooted for the area around the village, but as yet the expanses of palm-fringed beach remain untouched.


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12/5/2008 1:14:40 PM

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