Cafes, Confiterias and Snacks
Abuela Pan , Bolivar 707, San Telmo. Homely vegetarian cafe and wholefood store offering a daily two-course menu for $6 with options such as wholemeal pasta, aubergine omelette and vegetarian locro . Open Mon-Fri 8am-6pm. La Americana , Callao 83-99, centre. A Callao landmark, serving up juicy empanadas to be consumed standing up at metal counters. La Biela , Quintana 598, Recoleta. Institutional confiteria famed for its lomitos and tip-top coffee, served in the elegant bistro interior or, with a hefty surcharge, in the shade of a gigantic gum-tree on the terraces. Le Carafon , Callao 1143, Recoleta. Wine bar with an extensive list of Argentine wines married with classic French bistro dishes such as coq au vin , in the plush salon of a tastefully converted town house. La Cocina , Local 61-62, Galeria Boston, Florida 142. This simple Catamarcan eaterie (take out or eat at the tables outside) is regarded as having some of the finest empanadas in the city, with juicy, home-made fillings (vegetarian options available) and delicious pastry. They also do a great and unusually light locro . La Conzuelo , Baez 207, Las Canitas. Trendy tapas bar with a good wine list, if a little overpriced, all in an ultramodern setting, with a VIP salon with huge armchairs upstairs. Del Viejo Hotel , Balcarce 1053, San Telmo (tel 011/4362-0086). Popular lunchtime cafe for good inexpensive food served in this restored former hotel which now houses artists' workshops. Freddo , Galerias Pacifico, Av. Cordoba and Florida. Buenos Aires' best ice-cream chain provides a compelling reason to descend to the basement of this shopping centre on a hot day - dulce de leche fans will be in heaven and the unusual pomelo (grapefruit) flavour is superb. Many other branches throughout the city. La Giralda , Corrientes and Uruguay, Centre. Brightly lit and austerely decorated Corrientes cafe, famous for its chocolate con churros . A perennial hangout for students and intellectuals and a good place to observe the Porteno passion for conversation. La Ideal , Suipacha 384, (tel 011/4553-2466). It's not quite as famous as the Tortoni , but this confiteria is just as beautiful and has a great tango salon upstairs. Open Plaza , Av. Libertador 1800, Recoleta. Eclectic confiteria, and a great place for brunch or afternoon tea. It has a fast-food section, an antique-silver store, and an elegant salon with newspapers. La Puerto Rico , Alsina 422, Monserrat. One of the city's classic confiterias. Simple, elegant and timeless. La Querencia , Esmeralda 1392 at Av. Libertador. A small restaurant specializing in empanadas tucumanas , which are excellent, and regional dishes such as locro and tamales . A good spot for a snack if you have an hour or two to kill in the vicinity of Retiro. Sabores da Bahia , Esmeralda 965, Retiro. Tucked away at the back of the Fundacion Centro de Estudos Brasileiros, this snack-bar-cum-cafe is one of the few spots in Argentina where you can get Brazilian snacks such as coxinhas , delicious fried dough balls filled with chicken, or the energy-giving drink guarana. Feijoada , a rich Brazilian stew of beans and pork, is served on Friday. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm.
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