The North
Afrodita , Baez 121, Palermo (tel 011/4772-6527). This newly opened restaurant in the phenomenally successful Las Canitas area offers imaginative pasta dishes such as ravioles de calabaza (pumpkin ravioli) at moderate prices in a stylish atmosphere. Evenings only. Almacen Cabrera , Cabrera 4399, Palermo (tel 011/4832-4670); buses #140, #142 from Cordoba. An attractive restaurant - the building was a traditional almacen - serving above average pasta, chicken and parrillada at below average prices. Good service and attention to detail. Evenings only, plus Sun lunch. Armenia , Armenia 1366 (tel 011/4775-7494), Palermo Viejo. Delicious and authentic Armenian food, including smoked ham, boreks, kepe and falafel, served in simple surroundings. Azafran , Honduras 5143 (tel 011/4832-6487), Palermo Viejo. Spanish dishes such as paella, plus a wide selection of tapas including chorizo and broad beans on Sundays only. Closed Mon. Burmana , Av. del Libertador 2701, Olivos (tel 011/4799-5347). Exotic surroundings, plus oriental music and belly dances. The Armenian and Middle Eastern specialities, such as tarama, lamb kebabs and kataif, are served with panache. La Casa Polaca , J.L. Borges 2076, Palermo Viejo (tel 011/4774-7621). The infectious good humour of the owner, who wanders from table to table, goes a long way to turning eating at La Casa Polaca into a memorable experience. There's piano music too and plenty of hearty Eastern European food. La Catedra , Cervino 4699, Palermo (tel 011/4777-4601). Classic Argentine restaurant in a beautiful neocolonial house, with some unusual twists - like fruit sauces - to a standard menu. Club del Vino , Cabrera 4737, Palermo (tel 011/4833-0048); buses #140 and #142. With a modern Argentinian menu including duck, lamb and seafood, this small and elegant restaurant shares the space with a music venue (tango and jazz) and a wine bar. Evenings only. Closed Sun. Club Sirio , Ayacucho 1496, Recoleta (tel 011/4806-5764). Every Argentine city has its Syrian club-restaurant but this palatial place is one of the best. Excellent mezze-style buffet. Belly-dancing Thurs-Sat. Closed all Sun. Colbeh Melahat , Av. del Libertador 13041, San Isidro (tel 011/4793-3955). Let the owners advise you what to have at Argentina's only Persian restaurant, but the lamb cooked in pomegranate juice is unforgettable. Closed Sun and lunchtime. El Cook & Bardelli , French 2316, Recoleta. Traditional, extremely friendly Italian trattoria, serving traditional, home-made food, with an extensive drinks and wine list. Closed Sun lunch & Mon. Errazuriz , Museo de Arte Decorativo, Libertador 1902, Palermo (tel 011/4806-8639). Refined but unpretentious French-style cuisine in the elegant surroundings of the mansion's coach-house. Pleasant garden terrace, weather permitting. Lunch and dinner daily; afternoon teas on Sun. La Esquina de las Flores , Avenida Cordoba 1587 (tel 011/4813-3630). Reliable vegetarian and macrobiotic restaurant serving up a variety of hot (including a good carbonada de vegetales , a vegetarian version of the popular criollo stew) and cold dishes. Closed Sat evening and all day Sunday. La Factoria , Arribenos 2393, Belgrano. A converted warehouse is the atmospheric setting for this Uruguayan-run place, with gaucho waiters. Filo , San Martin 975, Retiro (tel 011/4311-0312). As much a place to be seen as to eat; the food in this trendy restaurant is nevertheless to be reckoned with. Imaginative pizza, pasta and salads and Italy meets Argentina in dishes such as Venetian mussel soup with Patagonian clams. La Fonda del Polo , Baez 301, Las Canitas (tel 011/4772-8946). Traditional parrilla in thematic decor, popular with polo players and their supporters from the Campo de Polo. French , French and Azcuenaga, Recoleta (tel 011/4806-9331). Warmly decorated neighbourhood bar-cum-restaurant, serving excellent pasta, veal dishes and a wonderful panna cotta. Freud & Fahler , Gurruchaga 1750, Palermo Viejo (tel 011/4833-2153). The serrano hams hanging from the ceiling and bottles of Rioja lined up on the shelves are served at this atmospheric tapas bar, which also does a mean paella. Green Bamboo , Costa Rica 5802, Palermo Viejo (tel 011/4775-7050). Delicious pork, fish and seafood, perfumed with ginger, lemongrass, chilli and fish sauce, prepared by the cooks from the Vietnamese embassy, so it's genuine. La Grispella , Virrey Loreto 3093, Colegiales (tel 011/4553-7211). Traditional but not stuffy Italian trattoria serving excellent pasta and other dishes, rounded off with an unbeatable tiramisu. Hsiang Ting Tang , Arribenos 2245 Palermo, (tel 011/4786-0371). An upmarket place serving a wide range of Taiwanese dishes, in soothing surroundings. Try the pork sauteed in ginger. Katmandu , Av. Cordoba 3547, Palermo (tel 011/4963-1122). You can watch your naan being baked and your rogan josh being simmered in the kitchen of this top-rate restaurant, where you dine among Indian antiques. By the way, "Indian hot" really does mean vindaloo-style. Lotus , Ortega y Gasset 1782, Belgrano (tel 011/4771-4449). Undoubtedly the most authentic Thai food in town, served with a smile in temple-like decor complete with gilded buddhas. Green curries are fabulous. Morelia , Baez 260, Las Canitas (tel 011/4772-0329). Busy, noisy but smart place, with young fashion-victim clientele but excellent thin-crust pizzas, the speciality being yummy pizza a la parrilla . na Serapia , Las Heras 3357, Palermo; buses #10, #37. An unexpectedly traditional and rustic restaurant in the heart of upmarket Palermo, na Serapia styles itself as a pulperia and bar and serves delicious regional dishes including locro and tamales at very reasonable prices. Las Nazarenas , Reconquista 1132 (tel 011/4312-5559). Superb parrilla cooked gaucho-style on the asador criollo , where meat is staked around an open barbecue. Moderate to expensive. La Placita , Serrano 1636, Palermo Viejo. Filling home cooking at this traditional cantina , a counterpoint to the trendy bars across the Plaza Serrano, and marred only by the glaring fluorescent-strip lighting. Piola , Libertad 1078, Barrio Norte. (tel 011/4812-0690; www.piola.it ). Trendy, popular and lively Italian restaurant serving excellent pizza. Happy hour Mon-Fri 6.30-9.30pm, live jazz on Wed. Reservations advisable. Closed Sat & Sun lunchtime. El Primo , Baez 302, Palermo (tel 011/4775-0150). One of the few relative bargains to be had in swanky Las Canitas. Popular parrilla offering traditional Porteno dishes with a bit of flair. You'll probably have to queue, but at least they serve you a glass of wine while you're waiting. Rave , Gorriti 5092, Palermo. Interesting food combinations and endless list of cocktails served in an unusual decor dominated by giant pink tulips and appreciated by a trendy, gay-dominated clientele. Closed Mon lunch. San Babila , Roberto M. Ortiz 1815, Recoleta (tel 011/4801-9444). Reliable, traditional Italian trattoria, with no surprises on the menu but delicious food, especially the pasta and above all the carpaccio. El Sanjuanino , Posadas 1515, Recoleta (tel 011/4805-2683). Empanadas, locro, humitas and barbecued chicken, plus delicious goat's cheese with honey for dessert. No credit cards. Closed Mon. Sarkis , Thames 1101, Villa Crespo; buses #140 and #142; tel 011/4772-4911). Excellent tabbouleh, keppe crudo (raw meat with onion - much better than it sounds), falafel etc at this popular restaurant serving a fusion of Armenian, Arab and Turkish cuisine. Close to one of Buenos Aires' nicest barrios, Palermo Viejo. Soul Cafe , Baez 246, Palermo (tel 011/4778-3115). Describing itself as a "boogie restaurant", the food's probably not the point for much of the clientele of this pioneering Las Canitas venue. Dishes are of the punning variety with "Pumpkin Soulrrentinos" on the menu for $12. It's not a bad place to have a cocktail though, all in all, the place is a bit too artful really to have "soul". Evenings only. Closed Mon. Todos Contentos , Arribenos 2177, Belgrano; buses #29, #60, #64 or train from Retiro. One of the best places to eat in Belgrano's Chinatown; a friendly Chinese/Taiwanese with a good selection of very filling noodle soups for around $6. Closed Mon lunch. Xalapa , Gurruchaga and El Salvador, Palermo Viejo (tel 011/4833-6102). The owners lived in Oaxaca for a while, and it shows through in the cooking, the most authentic Mexican fare in the city. Bring a fire-extinguisher, especially for the stuffed chillies. No credit cards. Evenings only. Closed all Sun. Ying Yang , Paraguay 858, Retiro (tel 011/4311-7798). Pioneering healthfood restaurant with a variety of inexpensive, wholesome - if slightly tired - vegetarian (and some fish) dishes. Closed Sun.
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