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Almacen y Bar , Cochabamba 1701, Constitucion; subte station Entre Rios or buses #6, #12 and #37. Upmarket picadas comprising Argentinian and imported cheeses, cured ham and shellfish, plus an excellent wine list. Closed Sat evening and all day Sun. Basque Francais , Moreno 1370, Montserrat (tel 011/4304-4841). For over a hundred years, this restaurant has been serving up expertly cooked seafood such as squid, octopus and fruits de mer . Expensive but delicious, and more affordable if there are a few of you to share dishes. Closed Sun. La Cancha , Brandsen 697, La Boca (tel 011/4362-2975). A classic place to spend a weekend lunchtime - in the shadow of La Bombonera - Boca Juniors' legendary football stadium. Good fresh seafood including excellent pulpo a la gallega (octopus with oil and paprika) to share between two. Cantina 3 Amigos , Necochea 1200, La Boca (tel 011/4301-2441). Particularly garishly decorated Boca cantina offering the usual mix of pasta, chicken and seafood at moderate prices accompanied by loud cumbia and merengue. Evenings only (ring first). La Casa de Esteban de Luca , Carlos Calvo 383, San Telmo (tel 011/4361-4338). Housed in a famous eighteenth-century building once occupied by the poet and journalist Esteban de Luca, this popular San Telmo restaurant serves up typical Porteno dishes with an imaginative twist. El Desnivel , Defensa 855, San Telmo. This popular, no-frills parrilla offers good food at rock- bottom prices. Closed Mon. La Gran Taberna , Combate de los Pozos 95, Monserrat (tel 011/4951-7586). A popular, bustling and down-to-earth restaurant just a block from Congreso. The vast menu offers a mixture of Spanish dishes, including a good selection of seafood, and Porteno classics as well as a sprinkling of more exotic dishes such as ranas a la provenzal (frogs' legs with parsley and garlic). Many of the dishes are large enough to share. Prices are very reasonable, too, and service is friendly, though it can be a bit slow during busy periods. Laurak-Bat , Belgrano 1144, Montserrat (tel 011/4381-0682). This moderately priced restaurant within Club Vasco has as its centrepiece an oak tree said to be descended from the "Arbol de Guernica" planted by God, according to Basque tradition. On a more down-to-earth note, the restaurant offers Basque specialities such as bacalao al pil-pil (salt cod in a garlicky sauce) and serves complimentary sherry and tapas. El Obrero , Caffarena 64, La Boca (tel 011/4362-9912). With the Boca Juniors souvenirs on the walls, and tango musicians moving from table to table at weekends, the atmosphere at the hugely popular and moderately priced El Obrero is as much a part of the attraction as the simple home-cooked food. Closed Sun. Parrilla 1880 , Defensa 1665, San Telmo (tel 011/4305-1746). A classic and extremely good parrilla joint right opposite Parque Lezama. The walls are lined with photos and drawings from the restaurant's famous and mostly bohemian clients and the very friendly owner passes from table to table making sure that everyone is happy. Prices are reasonable too. Daily until about 12.30am. Patagonia Sur , Rocha 801, La Boca (tel 011/4303-5917). Very smart place run by the leading Argentine chef, Francis Mallmann. The interesting menu combines French sauces with top-rate lamb, beef and seafood from Patagonia. Closed Sun evening. Il Piccolo Vapore , Necochea 1190, La Boca (tel 011/4301-4455). Lively Boca cantina , offering set four-course menu plus unlimited wine and soft drinks at $20-25 per head for small groups or $16 for groups of fifteen or more. Cabaret, live music and dancing take centre stage though. Evenings only (ring first). El Puentecito , Lujan 2101, Barracas (tel 011/4301-1794). This hundred-year-old restaurant in the traditional barrio of Barracas is well worth a trip for the generous puchero (boiled meat and vegetables), parrilla and seafood. Best of all, it's open round the clock. Plaza Mayor , Venezuela 1399. The trouble with many Spanish restaurants in Argentina is that they will seem inordinately expensive to anyone used to the cheap and delicious seafood available in Spain itself. Nonetheless, Plaza Mayor is one of the better places, offering excellent merluza (hake) and a pretty decent paella at moderate prices. The restaurant is also famous for its pan dulce (pannetone), for which queues regularly form around Christmas and New Year. Rimini , Necochea 1234, La Boca (tel 011/4302-6900). One of the oldest of Necochea's famous cantinas , serving up a menu fijo of the usual chicken and pasta for $15, plus lively music until 4am. Evenings only (ring first).
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