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Directly south of La Ceiba, the Cordillera Nombre de Dios shelters the Parque Nacional Pico Bonito (daily 6am-4pm; US$6), a remote expanse of tropical broadleaf forest, cloudforest and - in its southern reaches, above the Rio Aguan valley - pine forest. Taking its name from the awe-inspiring bulk of Pico Bonito (2435m) itself, the park is the source of twenty rivers, including the Zacate, Bonito and Cangrejal, which cascade majestically down the steep, thickly covered slopes. The park also provides sanctuary for an abundance of wildlife including armadillos, howler and spider monkeys, pumas and tigrillos - an abundance which is largely due to the park's inaccessibility. The lower fringes are the most easily penetrable, with a small number of trails laid out through the dense greenery. The easiest place to get into the park is via the Lodge at Pico Bonito (tel 440 0388, www.picobonito.com ; US$80-$100 and over), a world-class jungle lodge with amazing bungalow accommodation, gourmet cuisine, a pool and a sublime setting in the foothills of the forest reserve. To get there head for the village of Los Pinos , 12km from La Ceiba on the Tela highway, from where the hotel is signposted, 3km away up a dirt side road. Trails from the lodge snake up through the tree cover to a lookout from where Utila is visible, and down to beautiful river bathing pools. Tour companies in La Ceiba operate day-and overnight trips to Pico Bonito from around US$40 per person. Just below Lodge at Pico Bonito are two further attractions. The Finca Mariposa butterfly park (US$5), a signposted 600m from the hotel, is home to more than forty species in a large, screened garden house. A further 2km from the butterfly park, but better reached from a one-kilometre-long dirt road from Los Pinos, the small AMARAS wildlife refuge centre (tel 443 3824, fupnapib@kaceiba.com ; US$2) takes in monkeys, big cats (including jaguars), macaws and parrots confiscated from traffickers and previously kept as pets, and where possible prepares them for release back into the wild - volunteers are needed and visitors welcome. The Rio Cangrejal , forming the eastern boundary of the park, boasts some of the best class III and IV rapids in Central America; whitewater rafting and kayaking trips are organized by some of the tour companies we've listed. There are also some magnificent swimming spots, backed by gorgeous mountain scenery, along the river valley. It's tricky to get to the river under your own steam, but you could contact the German-owned Omega Rafting (tel 440 0334, omegatours@laceiba.com ), who run a small hotel (US$5-10) geared for eco-travellers on the banks of the Cangrejal - transport from La Ceiba, full board and a day spent either trekking, horse-riding or rafting costs US$50 per person.
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