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West of the Tegucigalpa-San Pedro Sula highway lie Lempira and Intibuca, the departments that make up the western highlands of Honduras, a stunningly beautiful landscape of pine forests, sparsely inhabited mountains and remote villages. These two departments contain the highest concentration of indigenous peoples in the country and the small, lively town of La Esperanza , 68km southwest of the highway, is - despite increasingly rapid absorption into mainstream culture - the place where you're most likely to see traditional dress being worn. The drawback to travelling around here is the state of the roads: most are unsurfaced and can become impassable during the wet season. Private vehicles are infrequent, and public transport frustratingly slow and uncomfortable. If you're prepared to put up with the delays, however, you can take a cross-country route through La Esperanza to the colonial town of Gracias and the stunning cloudforest of the Parque Nacional la Celaque . At this point the infrastructure begins to improve, and it's an easy journey on to Santa Rosa de Copan.
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