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Lying 17km offshore from the mainland, the CAYOS COCHINOS ( Hog Islands ) comprise two, thickly wooded main islands - Cochino Grande and Cochino Pequeno - and thirteen cayes, all of them privately owned. The small amount of effort it takes to get there is well worth it for a few days' utter tranquillity. Fringed by a reef, the whole area has been designated a marine reserve , with anchoring on the reef and commercial fishing both strictly prohibited. The US Smithsonian Institute, which manages the reserve, has a research station on Cochino Pequeno. On land, the island's hills are studded with hardwood forests, palms and cactus, while Cochino Grande has a number of trails across its interior, and a small peak rising to 145m. Organized accommodation on the islands is limited to the Plantation Beach Resort on Cochino Grande (tel 442 0974, www.plantationbeachresort.com ), which does weekly dive packages for around US$800, including all meals and three dives a day; they collect guests by launch from the Muralla de Cabotaje dock in La Ceiba on Saturdays (US$75 return). It can be more rewarding, however, to stay in the traditional Garifuna fishing village of CHACHAUATE on Lower Monitor Caye, south of Cochino Grande. Here, the villagers have allocated a hut for visitors to sling their hammocks for a minimal charge, and will cook meals for you. Basic groceries are available in the village, though you should bring water and your main food supplies with you from the mainland. Unless you're staying at the Plantation Beach , the only way to the Cayos is to charter a boat from the Muralla de Cabotaje dock at La Ceiba (US$60-80 return for up to six people, but be sure to bargain hard), or from the Garifuna village of Nueva Armenia , (around US$40 return for a charter), 40km east of La Ceiba. One bus a day runs to Nueva Armenia (2hr) from La Ceiba; more frequent buses to Trujillo, Tocoa and Olanchito all pass through Jutiapa, 8km inland from Nueva Armenia, from where you can hitch or walk. There is a basic hotel (up to US$5) in Nueva Armenia and a few simple eating places.
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