|
On the opposite side of the lake from Panajachel, SANTIAGO ATITLAN is set to one side of a sheltered horseshoe inlet, overshadowed by the cones of the San Pedro, Atitlan and Toliman volcanoes. It's the largest and most important of the lakeside villages, and also one of the most traditional, being the main centre of the Tz'utujil-speaking Maya. At the time of the Conquest, the Tz'utujil had their fortified capital, Chuitinamit-Atitlan , on the slopes of San Pedro, while the bulk of the population lived spread out around the site of today's village. Alvarado and his crew, needless to say, destroyed the capital and massacred its inhabitants, assisted this time by a force of Kaqchikel Maya, who arrived at the scene in some three hundred canoes. Today, Santiago is an industrious but relaxed sort of place. During the day the town becomes fairly commercial, its main street , which runs from the dock to the plaza, lined with weaving shops. There's nothing like the Panajachel overkill here, but the persistence of underage gangs trying to sell weavings and artesania can still be a bit much. By mid-afternoon, once the ferries have left, things revert to normal and the whole village becomes a lot more friendly. There's not a lot to do in Santiago other than stroll around soaking up the atmosphere, or enjoying the market - Friday is the main day, though there's a smaller event on Sundays. The old colonial Catholic church is well worth a look, however. The huge altarpiece which was carved when the church was under cofradia control culminates in the shape of a mountain peak and a cross. The cross symbolizes the Maya world tree, which supports the source of all life, including people, animals and the corn ears that you can see on the cross. In the middle of the floor is a small hole which Atitecos believe to be the centre of the world. The church is also home to a stone memorial commemorating Father Stanley Rother, an American priest who served in the parish from 1968 to 1981. Father Rother was a committed defender of his parishioners in an era when, in his own words, "shaking hands with an Indian has become a political act". Branded a Communist by President Garcia, he was assassinated by a paramilitary death squad like hundreds of his parishioners before and after him. His body was returned to his native Oklahoma for burial but his heart was removed and buried in the church. As is the case in many other parts of the Guatemalan highlands, the Catholic Church in Santiago is locked in bitter rivalry with several evangelical sects, who are building churches here at an astonishing rate. Their latest construction, right beside the lake, is the largest structure in town. Folk Catholicism also plays an important role in the life of Santiago and the town is well known as one of the few places where Maya still pay homage to Maximon , the drinking and smoking saint. Any child will take you to see him; just ask for the "Casa de Maximon". The traditional costume of Santiago, still worn a fair amount, is both striking and unusual. The men wear long shorts which, like the women's huipiles , are striped white and purple and intricately embroidered with birds and flowers. The women also wear a xk'ap , a band of red cloth approximately 10m long, wrapped around their heads, which has the honour of being depicted on the 25 centavo coin. Sadly this headcloth is going out of use and on the whole you'll probably only see it at fiestas and on market days, and then worn mainly by older women.
Your Tip for Santiago Atitlan
Help other backpackers! Write your own guides and backpacking tips to Santiago Atitlan - they will appear instantly on this page - Please only write a tip/guide to Santiago Atitlan - visit the main Santiago Atitlan forum to ask a question!
Please do not post links to your site here (they won't work) - please use the Santiago Atitlan webguide section below! Thanks.
|
