Where To Go
Almost everywhere in the western highlands is of interest to the traveller. The landscape is exceptionally beautiful, dotted with highland villages of adobe houses and whitewashed colonial churches. Antigua , the former capital, is unmissable: a beautiful colonial city nestling in the shadow of giant volcanoes, it also has the most cosmopolitan restaurant scene in Central America. Lago de Atitlan is another jewel - a lake of astounding natural beauty, ringed by volcanoes and some of the most traditional Maya villages in all Guatemala. Home to perhaps the most famous market in the country, Chichicastenango is a sleepy highland town steeped in Maya/Catholic ritual. There are tremendous markets, too, at Solola and San Francisco El Alto . For real adventure, spectacular scenery and myriad hiking possibilities, the Ixil triangle in northern Quiche and the mountainous countryside around Todos Santos Cuchumatan are unmatched. Both are remote, intensely traditional areas that lie at the end of tortuous bus journeys; both suffered terribly in the civil war. Much easier to get to are the villages around Quetzaltenango (Xela), Guatemala's second city. Though Xela itself is a fairly unexciting provincial centre, close by you'll find the villages of Zunil, San Francisco El Alto, the stunning hot springs of Fuentes Georginas and the near-perfect cone of Volcan Santa Maria. The scenery, villages and living Maya culture are the main attractions in the highlands, but there are also interesting Maya ruins , including the pre-conquest cities of Iximche, Utatlan and Zaculeu , and assorted smaller sites, many still actively used for Maya religious ritual and ceremony. These ancient cities don't bear comparison to Tikal, Copan and the lowland sites, but they're fascinating nevertheless. The Carretera Interamericana runs through the middle of the western highlands, served by a constant flow of buses, some branching off along minor roads to more remote areas. Travelling in these areas can sometimes be a gruelling experience, particularly in northern Huehuetenango and Quiche, but the scenery makes it well worth the discomfort. The most practical plan of action is to base yourself in one of the larger places and then make a series of day-trips to markets and fiestas, although even the smallest of villages will usually offer some kind of accommodation.
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