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At the western end of the valley is SALAMA , capital of the department of Baja Verapaz. The town has a relaxed and prosperous air and, like many of the places out this way, its population is largely ladino . There's not much to do other than browse in the Sunday market, though the crumbling colonial bridge on the edge of town and the old church, with its huge, gilded altars, darkened by age, are worth a look. The fiesta in Salama runs from September 17 to 21. If you decide to stay , the pick of the hotels is the modern Hotel Real Legendario at 8 Av 3-57 (tel 940 0187; US$10-15), with very clean rooms, all with private bath, good beds and cable TV, or you could try the Hotel Tezulutlan just south of the plaza (tel 940 1643; US$10-15), though the rooms, set round a courtyard, are less attractive. For something cheaper, Pension Juarez (tel 940 0055; US$5-10) is a good budget hotel at the end of 5 Calle past the police station. For eating , there are several places around the plaza: El Ganadero is the best restaurant and Deli-Donus scores for coffee and snacks. The Bancafe opposite the church will cash travellers' cheques; the post office (Mon-Fri 8am-4.30pm) is almost next door. Hourly buses run from Guatemala City to Salama (6am-4pm; 3hr 30min). There's also a steady shuttle of minibuses to and from La Cumbre, for connections with pullman buses between Coban and Guatemala City.
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