Practicalities
Getting to Sayaxche from Flores is very straightforward, with several Pinita buses (5.30am, 8am, 10am, 1pm & 4pm; 2hr) and one Del Rosio service (5am) plying the fairly smooth 62-kilometre dirt road. At other times hitching a ride in a pick-up is not too difficult. A ferry takes you over the Rio Pasion, directly opposite Sayaxche. Hotels in Sayaxche are on the basic side. The Guayacan (tel 926 6111; US$10-15), right beside the river, is the first you come to, with plain functional rooms, some with private bath, and lovely sunset views from the terrace. For a cheaper room, head right from the dock to the friendly Hotel Posada Segura (US$5-10), which has decent, clean rooms, some with private bath; alternatively, head left down the street above the Guayacan to the basic but cheap Hospedaje Mayapan (up to US$5), where you may be able to rent a bike for visiting Ceibal. There are plenty of reasonable places to eat , the best being the Restaurant Yaxkin (closes 8pm), which is a little pricey, though the portions are huge. There's also decent food at Guayacan and La Montana , 100m south on the same street, a restaurant owned by the knowledgeable and helpful Julian Mariona, who can arrange trips to the nearby ruins (around US$40 a day). You'll find plenty of boatmen eager to take you up- or downriver, though they tend to see all tourists as walking cash-dispensers and quote prices in dollars. Try Pedro Mendez Requena of Viajes Don Pedro (tel & fax 928 6109) who offers tours of the area from his office on the riverfront. You can change travellers' cheques at Banora, a block up from the Guayacan .
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