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Currently undergoing excavation, the site of Abaj Takalik (daily 9am-4pm; US$3.20) has already provided firm evidence of an Olmec influence reaching this area in the first century AD. Excavations have so far unearthed some enormous stelae, several of them very well preserved, dating the earliest monuments to around 126 AD. The remains of two large temple platforms have also been cleared, and what makes a visit to this obscure site really worthwhile are the carved sculptures and stelae found around their base, including rare and unusual representations of frogs and toads (monument 68) and an alligator (monument 66). Amongst the finest carvings is stela 5, which features two standing figures separated by a hieroglyphic panel which has been dated to 126 AD. Look out for a giant Olmec head, too, showing a man of obvious wealth with great hamster cheeks. A small building acts as the site musuem , containing a model of Abaj Takalik and assorted carvings and ceramics. You should be able to get a warm agua near the entrance, but there's no food available. To get to Abaj Takalik , take a local bus from Reu 15km east to the village of El Asintal, from where it's a 4km walk through coffee and cacao plantations. If you're using your own transport, take the highway towards Mexico and turn right at the sign.
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