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From the Mexican border to Cocales





The coastal border with Mexico is the busiest of Guatemala's frontiers, with two crossing points, both open 24 hours. The northernmost of the two posts is the Talisman Bridge , also referred to as El Carmen , where there's little more than a few huts, a couple of basic pensiones (both up to US$5) and a round-the-clock flow of buses to Guatemala City. If you're heading towards Quetzaltenango or the western highlands, take the first bus to Malacatan and change there. On the Mexican side, over the bridge, a constant stream of minibuses leave for Tapachula.

The Tecun Uman crossing is favoured by most Guatemalans and all commercial traffic. It has an authentic frontier flavour, with all-night bars frequented by lost souls, dealers in contraband and moneychangers. There are some cheap hotels: the Hotel Vanessa 2 (US$5-10) and the Hotel Don Jose , 2 C 3-42 (tel 776 8164; US$5-10) are two of the best, but it's probably a much better idea to get straight out of town - everyone else does. Once again, there's a steady stream of buses to Guatemala City along the Carretera al Pacifico via Coatepeque and Retalhuleu. If you're Mexico-bound, there are very frequent bus services to Tapachula (30min) over the border.

Heading east from the Mexican border, COATEPEQUE is the first place of any importance you come to, a town that's in many ways typical of the coastal strip. A furiously busy, purely commercial centre, this is where most of the coffee produced locally is processed. The action is centred on the bus terminal , an intimidating maelstrom of sweat, mud and energetic chaos. Buses run every thirty minutes from here to the two border crossings, and hourly to Quetzaltenango and Guatemala City. The town is also connected with Guatemala City by daily flights (1hr; US$55 one way), arriving at the airstrip about 3km

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southwest of the centre.

The best place to stay in Coatepeque is the Hotel Villa Real , 6 C 6-57 (tel 775 1308, fax 775 1939; US$15-25), a modern hotel with clean rooms and secure parking. A bit cheaper is the family-run Hotel Baechli , 6 C 5-35 (tel 775 1483; US$15-25), which has plain rooms with fan and TV, plus secure parking. There are two banks on the plaza that will change travellers' cheques and a Telgua office (daily 7am-10pm) at 5 Av and 7 C.


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12/5/2008 1:21:53 PM

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