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Looking like a miniature medieval castle, the Castillo de San Felipe , 1km upstream from the bridge at Rio Dulce, was damaged by a large earthquake in July 1997 and closed to visitors at the time of writing, but should open again soon (entrance will be US$1.30). Marking the entrance to Lago de Izabal, the castillo is a tribute to the audacity of British pirates, who used to sail up the Rio Dulce to raid supplies and harass mule trains. The Spanish were so infuriated by this that they built the fortress to seal off the entrance to the lake, and a chain was strung across the river. Inside there's a maze of tiny rooms and staircases, plenty of cannons and panoramic views of the lake. A kilometre from the castle, close to the waterside village of SAN FELIPE , is the Rancho Escondido (tel & fax 369 2681; US$5-15), a friendly American-Guatemalan guesthouse, with hammock space and a restaurant. If you call or radio from the Rio Bravo or Bruno's , they'll come and pick you up.
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