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Encompassing a substantial slice of lowland jungle on the west side of the lake, the Reserva Bocas del Polochic is one of the richest wetland habitats in Guatemala. The green maze of swamp, marsh and forest harbours at least 224 different species of bird, among them golden-fronted woodpeckers, Aztec parakeets and keel-billed toucans. It's also rich in mammals, including howler monkeys, which you're virtually guaranteed to see (and hear), plus rarely encountered manatees and tapirs. You can stay next to the tiny Q'eqchi' village of SELEMPIM in the heart of the reserve - accommodation is in a large, screened wooden house with bunk beds (US$12 per person per day, including three substantial meals) which is managed by the reserve and provides villagers with employment. Locals also lead walking tours up into the foothills of the Sierra de las Minas and kayak tours of the river delta. The drawback is that there's no road to the reserve and you'll have to rent a lancha to get there - due to fuel costs this can amount to US$35 for a day-trip, or as much as US$80 to get to Selempim and back, though obviously it's much cheaper if you can get a group together. To get to the reserve contact Defensores de la Naturaleza at 5 Av and 2 C, El Estor (tel 949 7237, rbocas@defensores.org.gt ), which organizes excellent tours into the heart of the refuge. To visit the zone nearest to El Estor, contact Hugo or Oscar in El Estor, both of whom run good day-trip excursions.
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