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At the mouth of the Rio Dulce, and only accessible by boat, LIVINGSTON is a very funky town that not only enjoys a superb setting but also offers a unique fusion of Guatemalan and Caribbean culture in which marimba mixes with Marley. Along with several other villages in Central America, Livingston provides the focus for the displaced Garifuna , or black Carib people, who are now strung out along the Caribbean coast between southern Belize and northern Nicaragua. To a lesser extent, Livingston also acts as a focal point for the Q'eqchi' Maya, many of whom moved into the area to escape the fighting during the guerrilla war. Livingston is undoubtedly one of the most fascinating places in Guatemala, and many visitors find the languid rhythm of life here hypnotic. The town is as popular with weekending Guatemalans as it is with international travellers, and offers a welcome break from mainstream Guatemalan culture. Carib food is generally excellent and more varied than the usual comedor dishes, and Garifuna punta rock and reggae make a pleasant change from the standard merengue. While certainly not unaffected by the pressures of daily life in Central America (crack cocaine use is growing), the general atmosphere is very chilled. Livingston is a small place, and you can see most of what there is to see in an hour or so. While there's not really that much to do in town itself other than relaxing in local style, a few places nearby are worth a visit. The local beaches , though safe for swimming, are not of the Caribbean dream variety, with the exception of the wonderful white-sand Playa Blanca , though this can be visited only on a tour. Women should note that it is not safe to walk alone along the local beaches, as a number of rapes have been reported in recent years. The most popular trip out of town is to Las Siete Altares , a group of waterfalls some 5km to the northwest. Unfortunately, there have been sporadic attacks on tourists walking to the falls. Though incidents have diminished in recent years, you should ask about the current situation before setting out; if you do decide to go, don't take anything of value. The safest option is to hire a local guide or visit as part of a tour. If you decide to go it alone, continue down the street past the Ubafu bar and turn right by the African Place hotel to the beach, then follow the sand away from town. After a couple of kilometres, wade across a small river and, just before the beach eventually peters out, take a path to the left. Follow this inland and you'll soon reach the first of the falls; to reach the others, scramble up, and follow the water. All of the falls are idyllic places to swim, but the highest one is the best of all.
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