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The eastern highlands southwest of the capital have to rank as the least-visited part of Guatemala. The population is almost entirely Latinized, speaking Spanish and wearing Western clothes, although many are by blood pure Maya. The ladinos of the east have a reputation for behaving like cowboys and supporting right-wing politics, and violent demonstrations of macho pride are not uncommon. Not surprisingly, the military recruits much of its personnel here. The landscape lacks the immediate appeal of the western highlands: the peaks are lower and the volcanoes less symmetrical. The region's towns are almost all pretty featureless and perennially hot and dusty, so you're unlikely to want to hang around for long. Esquipulas is certainly worth a visit, though, for its colossal church, the most important pilgrimage site in Central America. It's also positioned very close to the border with Honduras and El Salvador, though if you're heading into Honduras, you're most likely to end up spending the night in Chiquimula , a dull town that's the gateway to the ruins of Copan just over the border. Finally there's the spectacular crater lake of on top of the Volcan de Ipala , an idyllic spot whose isolation adds to its appeal.
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