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A short leg further along the road from Juayua is another quiet and charming mountain town, APANECA , founded by Pedro de Alvarado in the mid-sixteenth century. The town retains an air of friendly tranquillity, despite being popular with weekend visitors and home to one of the best-known restaurants in the country, La Cocina de mi Abuela , which draws wealthy San Salvadoreans and foreign residents alike. During the week, you're likely to have the place - and the wonderful surrounding mountain scenery - to yourself. The town is easily accessible by bus from both Sonsonate (1hr 30min) and Ahuachapan (1hr). The best-quality accommodation is at the Cabanas de Apaneca (tel 450 5106, fax 450 5137; US$40-60), which has twelve comfortable wood cabins set in lush gardens overlooking the mountain slopes, and a good on-site restaurant (for which you should book ahead at weekends and holidays). There are two new hostels , located at opposite ends of the town (both are well signposted from the Parque): the Hostal Rural Las Orquideas (tel 433 0061; US$10-15) has four clean, simple rooms with hot water - book in advance at weekends; the Hostal Rural Las Ninfas is very similar. The best place to eat is La Cocina de mi Abuela (11.30am-5pm Sat & Sun only; tel 450 5203 ext 301), housed in a beautifully decorated colonial-era house. The nicest tables are on the covered veranda at the back, with scenic views. Alternatively, the Restaurante Fonda Lamatepec , near the Cabanas de Apaneca , also serves excellent, if pricey, Salvadorean cuisine in a fine setting - fish fresh from Laguna Verde will set you back about US$8. Otherwise, eating options in town are limited to the row of friendly little comedores opposite the church.
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