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The two major commercial streets of Calle Ruben Dario and Calle Arce run in parallel west from the Catedral Metropolitana towards the western suburbs. In El Centro they're choked with stalls, wandering peddlers and black traffic fumes, and filled with the racket of competing music-cassette sellers. Struggle past the stalls and you'll find small businesses and shops selling anything you might not have been able to find on the stalls, at a higher price, and cheap, fast-service restaurants and cafes. Head a few blocks west, however, and things begin to calm down. Further along C Ruben Dario is Parque Bolivar , usually swarming with street children and the under-employed - more useful as a point for orientation (and the place to catch bus 102 to La Libertad) than for a respite from the city. One block west and three blocks south of Parque Bolivar on 17a Av Sur is the government printing press, with a small bookshop selling Spanish-language works on the history and culture of El Salvador. One block north of the Parque, on C Arce, is the nineteenth-century Iglesia Sagrado Corazon , under repair since earthquake damage. C Arce ends a few blocks west of here, in front of the nineteenth-century Hospital Rosales , constructed in Belgium, transported in pieces and put together in the city. South of the hospital, Parque Cuscatlan , a large expanse of green and shady walkways and grass lawns, offers respite from the heat and noise for office workers on their lunch break, and weekend amateur football teams. At this point C Dario becomes the Alameda Roosevelt, heading out towards the richer western suburbs.
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