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Five kilometres west of Joya de Ceren along the Carretera Interamericana is another important Maya ceremonial centre, San Andres (Tues-Sun 9am-4pm; US$3), set among rolling fertile agricultural land. San Andres is one of the largest pre-Columbian sites in El Salvador, originally covering more than three square kilometres and supporting a population of about 12,000. The site reached its peak in the Late Classic era, around 650-900, establishing itself as the regional capital for the settlements in the Zapotitan Valley. Only sections of the ceremonial centre have been excavated and the remains of seven major structures are visible - sadly, they've been preserved using rather too liberal amounts of concrete. The Acropolis (or south plaza) forms the major part of the centre, a raised platform supporting a number of pyramids and annexes. Structure 1 on the south edge was a temple; on its north face are the remains of an altar. Access to these pyramids was restricted to the governing elite, whose living quarters lay along the northern and western edges of the Acropolis; the bases of two of these have been reconstructed. The pyramids along the eastern edge of the Acropolis were possibly burial chambers. North of the Acropolis lay another plaza, used for markets and communal events. The largest pyramid (Structure 5) lies on the eastern edge of this plaza, but has not yet been excavated. Following the collapse of the Maya Empire from around 900 AD, San Andres was not taken over by incoming Pipils, although the remains of a small farm dating from the Early Postclassic era (900-1200 AD) have been found close by. Ruins from what would have been the surrounding residential districts, still visible up to fifty years ago, have now also been lost to farming activity. You can wander freely around the site, which is also a popular spot for picnicking family groups at the weekends. The informative museum (Spanish-language only) has a small replica of what the site would have looked like in its prime. Any Santa Ana-bound bus from San Salvador's Terminal de Occidente will drop you off on the highway at the access road to the site, from where it's about five minutes' walk to the site entrance. You can also walk between San Andres and Joya de Ceren, but to be safe it's best only to do this in a decent-sized group. A path leads across the fields behind San Andres, coming out about 4km northeast at an old railway track and abandoned station, just off the San Juan Opico road. From here it is another 3km or so to Joya de Ceren. From San Andres you can also continue on to Santa Ana - buses can be flagged down on the highway - or return to San Salvador.
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